AI modelling drives skincare research

A North East-based beauty research consultancy is using artificial intelligence to position Newcastle at the forefront of science-led skincare and haircare innovation.

HexisLab, founded by Dr Olusula Idowu (Sola) and based at the Biosphere in the Newcastle Helix innovation district, supports global brands to develop safe, high-performance products that meet international standards. 

Sola has led the boutique consultancy for more than 14 years, specialising in ingredient analysis, formulation, testing and validation.

At the heart of the business is a proprietary AI-driven research platform developed by Sola before artificial intelligence became mainstream. 

The system predicts how ingredients and formulations will behave within biological systems prior to laboratory testing, helping brands move faster while maintaining regulatory compliance and safety.

Sola, who is originally from Lagos and came to Newcastle more than 30 years ago to begin his doctorate at Newcastle University, remaining in the region ever since, said: “Consumers today are rightly asking questions. 

“Does this ingredient really work for me? Is it safe? Is it the right material for my skin or hair? Our role is to provide the scientific validation behind those answers.

“AI is a predictive tool for us.

“It helps us reduce guesswork, cut development time, and minimise waste. 

“We simulate outcomes digitally, shortlist the most promising formulations, and only then move into laboratory validation. 

“When results differ from our predictions, we refine the model – that’s how science progresses.”

HexisLab works with clients across the UK, the United States, Canada, China and India. 

Alongside consultancy services, the company also develops its own consumer products, including Layla & Kays, a textured hair shampoo and conditioner range that has received national recognition and holds vegan, cruelty-free and sulphate-free certification.

Operating with fewer than ten staff, the firm collaborates closely with regional universities and postgraduate researchers on advanced ingredient science. 

From its Newcastle base, HexisLab is blending AI and laboratory expertise to strengthen the region’s growing reputation in health and beauty innovation.

Sola added: “This city has always been a place of innovation. 

“From Newcastle Brown Ale to world-leading science, there’s no reason why the next global consumer brand shouldn’t come from here. 

“Layla & Kays shows that high-level science can be turned into products people can trust, use, and feel the benefit of. 

“It’s about making a real difference in people’s lives.

“All of this innovation is coming from the heart of Newcastle and Northumberland.

“And we’re only just getting started.”

To find out more about Sola, his journey from Lagos to the labs of the North East and the development of HexisLab, read his interview with Colin Young in our sister publication, N, here.

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